Caiazzo and surroundings
Caiazzo is a hill town in the province of Caserta on the right bank of the Volturno river, with Samnite roots. It keeps its cyclopean walls, a large Roman cistern under Piazza del Mercato and a Lombard castle with views over the whole valley. The old town is a maze of lanes and stone arches.
Where to eat: Pepe in Grani, Franco Pepe's pizzeria, often ranked among the best in the world; Zest for creative cooking; Lo Chalet in Alvignano and Ristorante Pizzeria Paglia for traditional food. For pastries and gelato, Pasticceria Sparano.
Mozzarella and local wines
In Alvignano, 15 minutes away, Caseificio Il Casolare has made PDO buffalo mozzarella since 1984 with milk from nearby farms: you can watch it being made and buy it fresh.
The Caiazzo hills grow rare grape varieties: Pallagrello Bianco, a mineral white once loved by the Bourbon court; Pallagrello Nero, a light, fruity red; and Casavecchia, a deep red for ageing. Wineries to visit: Vestini Campagnano, Canestrini and Masseria Piccirillo. One hour away in Taurasi, Cantine Caggiano makes Taurasi DOCG.
Royal Palace of Caserta, Caserta Vecchia and San Leucio
The Royal Palace of Caserta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the largest royal residences in the world, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli from 1752. Its park stretches 3 km with fountains, waterfalls and an English Garden. Allow 3–4 hours and book online; it is closed on Tuesdays.
Caserta Vecchia is a medieval village at 400 m with a Romanesque cathedral and restaurants with a view. In San Leucio the former royal silk factory still has its 18th-century looms.
Sant'Agata de' Goti, Telese Terme, Benevento and Limatola
Sant'Agata de' Goti stands on a tuff cliff: see the cathedral, the Annunziata church and the castle. Telese Terme, 20 minutes away, has thermal baths and a lake for walks; nearby are Michelin-starred restaurants such as Kresios.
Benevento has Trajan's Arch, the Roman theatre and the Lombard church of Santa Sofia, a UNESCO site. Limatola Castle on the Volturno has a restaurant and hosts a Christmas market in November and December.
Naples
Don't miss: Spaccanapoli, the Cathedral of San Gennaro, the Sansevero Chapel with the Veiled Christ (book online), Santa Chiara, the San Carlo opera house, Via San Gregorio Armeno and the National Archaeological Museum. Underground, visit Napoli Sotterranea and the Galleria Borbonica.
For pizza: L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele and Starita. For seafood, Ciro a Mergellina on the waterfront. Park in a garage near the historic centre.
Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius
Pompeii is the Roman city buried in AD 79: allow several hours and bring water and comfortable shoes. Herculaneum is smaller but better preserved, with multi-storey houses, wooden fittings and mosaics. On Vesuvius you can walk up to the crater rim for views over the whole bay. In the Phlegraean Fields, Pozzuoli has the Flavian Amphitheatre.
Capri, Ischia and Procida
Capri: funicular from Marina Grande, the Piazzetta, the Gardens of Augustus and the Monte Solaro chairlift in Anacapri; the Blue Grotto is visited by boat. Ischia is the green island of hot springs and the Aragonese Castle. Procida, with the colourful houses of Corricella, is the most authentic and least crowded.
Amalfi Coast and Sorrento
Positano, Amalfi with its Cathedral of Sant'Andrea, Ravello with Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, Atrani, the fjord of Furore, Cetara and its anchovy colatura, Minori and Maiori, Vietri sul Mare and its ceramics. On the Sorrento peninsula: Sorrento, Vico Equense and Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi.
Tip: book the Royal Palace, Pompeii, Herculaneum, the Sansevero Chapel and the Blue Grotto in advance, and remember that many museums close on Tuesdays.
Caiazzo · Campania